OK so this post is to record a challenge I have set myself, and hopefully it will be both entertaining and of some use to you at the same time. First some background - I first saw the Lonestar on the internet around the end of October 2009, and was instantly "blown away" by the Batman styling - straight out of Gotham City! Great promo videos on you tube too. As an ex- truck driver, it almost made me want to go out and buy one and get back on the road. Even if it is a Pro-star with just a new hood as some have said, I reckon it's great that someone would take the leap and build something that looks like that.
When I saw the Mobius kit coming out, I knew I had to be the "first kid on the block" with one at our local show. Given that I am always floored by adding too much detail, have little time to build ( like most of us ), and therefore RARELY get anything FINISHED, I figured "box stock" would have to be the only way to go. This class means you have to get the best out of the kit provided, so I figured it would be a good showcase of the model's quality, as well as my skill in showing it off.
With that said, I have had the kit for 10 days, and have another 10 weeks to go before the show. I have been taking some pics of the build as I go, and will try to post them up as I go along. I will also put in some commentary, as this being a new kit, you may find some of my mistakes helpful, so that you don't have to make them !
Finally, in this day and age, I should probably make the disclaimer that I am in no way affiliated with Navistar, Mobius or any other part of the hobby. Just one guy having fun, and all opinions expressed are my own. That, however, is what I figure these boards are all about.
That said, I have to commend the guys at Mobius for releasing this kit. It's great to see new stuff, especially when it is a new model that no-one has done before. I have bought 2 so far - go out and get one now to support our hobby!
I always start a complicated kit with the frame and major sub assemblies. I tend to work from what can't be adjusted ( eg. radiator and hood hinge to frame mounts ) back to what can ( cab position ) in order to align cab openings etc. I started with cleaning up the ejector pin marks on the frame rails ( see below ).
These cleaned up well. I also "machined" the top and bottom of the rails by sanding them on my favourite surface - a piece of 400 grit wet or dry paper used wet on an offcut of plate glass ( $1.50 picture frame from the discount store ). This provides a flat surface for the frame when assembling, so that the frame remains "square". The rails in my kit were quite warped ( see shot along sprue ) which is not surprising given their length, so I assembled the rear cross braces and both rails with liquid cement, and weighted them with some tool steels that I had. The whole assembly was aligned longitudonally, using the lines on a cutting mat, and left to dry overnight.
With the rear complete, the front rails can be seen to splay quite badly. I therefore decided to complete the front of the frame to brace it square, which is a departure from the order of assembly shown in the instructions.
Source: http://cs.scaleautomag.com/SCACS/forums/thread/963567.aspx
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